Inside Journals

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Wine and music: Chalices in the village in Gavignano

A medieval village and its fine people, a tasting of selected local wines, jazz music, samplings of local products, folk music, breathtaking scenery, streets and white stone buildings that reflect the moon. All this on the night of Chalices in the Village in Gavignano. Faced with such excellence, the only question…

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An unusual 'Good Food Shop' in the historic center of Paliano

The magic of historic town centers is due to two factors: the beauty of the place and the emotions that the people convey who live there, especially the traders who with their shops enliven the streets of downtown. Paliano is a small town in the hills south of Rome. It…

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Something Crazy about the artichoke

In spring in Italy we are in full artichoke season and many parts of the country are getting ready for a special ‘sagre’ tasting events, as in the Ladispoli Festival of Artichokes Romaneschi which is now celebrating its 66th anniversary. Just in Ladispoli, each year more than 400,000 people participate…

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Il Felcino: horseriding in Umbria

We were driving along a gravel road in the rain looking for horseriding in Umbria. We were near the conjunction between Umbria, Tuscany and Lazio, in the middle of nowhere today, but once it was the centre of the Duchy of Salci (Ducato di Salci). We came across a narrow…

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Superb tastes of restaurants in Città della Pieve

Last time we visited the hilltop town of Citta della Pieve (town of churches), deep in Umbria, we strolled around the streets and alleys that Il Perugino walked 500 years ago. On this visit to sample the special restaurants in Città della Pieve, we stayed overnight at the Hotel Vannucci, loyal…

Trattoria Bruno Coppetta

Bruno Coppetta and his ‘Fine Living Trattoria’

The medieval town of Città Della Pieve a little in Umbria and a little Tuscan, has many pleasant surprises for the wanderer down its alleys onto and around its squares, into churches, through the market on Saturday. A wonderful completion of the walking tour is to walk down Via Vannucci,…

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Ciociaria Taste Sensations, an Agriturismo in Paliano

For almost 30 years Francesca Litta has been happily creating taste sensations in Paliano, today managing the agriturismo farm, the Polledrara. She had started in the 80s working in the Park la Selva in which time she operated two restaurants. In 1984 one of the two restaurants had to be…

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Savona overnight – paradoxes

We ventured into the restaurant for breakfast, all modern, floors shining like a hospital waiting room in Berlin, each table square without a cloth, one knife and fork outside a solitary napkin. Across to the right, carafes of different coloured juices with little advice as to their origin, ahead to…

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Pesciolini - A Sprat to Catch a Mackerel

A “pesciolino” to the English is a minnow, traditionally a small carp used as bait to catch a bigger fish. The bait in the case of the Milanese restaurant, Pesciolini, is exquisite fruits de la mer - tartare, grilled or fried that capture the unwary traveller strolling through the ‘waters’…

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Italo-Australian style Sunday in Veneto

Italo-Australian - a conundrum of lifestyles? Our Italo-Australian Sunday expedition began when we met the creators of D’Orica, Giampetro Zonta and Daniela at Vivaio della Rive, in Zulgarno at the edge of the foothills leading to the Pre-Alpes, just west of the Montegrappa massif. Sunday lunch had been booked some…

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